Moving Office and taking everything but the kitchen sink

We moved office recently and I crammed as much in the load area as possible - underneath the mess are 5 computers and 10 monitors, also Wacom Cintiqs.  It may not look like it but I could still see out the rear view mirror.

Enjoy

As the Beast stands

 After doing a bit of work - cleaned her up a bit - some more to do, that Bumper really stands out now!

 

 

 Think a proper polish is in order shortly!

Here's the list of to do and Done

Done

• Add NoiseKiller Defender 90 kit 
• Add Wind Deflectors 
• Take off Light Guards and Bull bar, repair them, sand blast   
• Added new Windscreen Jet Washer  
• Added new Radio 
• Fixed Wiper Park Switch 
• Added Tubular side steps 
• Added rear Mudflaps 

To do Near Future

• Egg Box to completely insulate and sound proof it.
• Add Forward facing rear seats, in black.
• Upgrade front seats and add heated seats in black.
• Add Black checker plating all round
• Add Wolf front air Intakes
• Take off current Headlining and Interior paneling and replace with La Salle Interior Trim 

 
To do Distant Future

• Increase HBP
• Upgrade Brakes (TD5's are weak!!)
• Upgrade to Defender SVX Headlight Surrounds and Grill
• Add Twin Snorkels with a High Volume Dual entry air box.
• Upgrade bonnet to Puma Bonnet
• Galvanise the Chasis
• Add NAS rear bumper
• Upgrade front bumper
• Upgrade to Exmoor Trim spare tire holder
• Upgrade to Clear LED Nas spec lights.
• Add spots front and back
• Add New Light guards
• Possibly add Masai Land Rover Defender Dark Tinted Panoramic Windows
• Add a winch at some stage
• Add a 2" lift
• Upgrade Rims in size and also get black ones

Clutch Modification

So I ordered the 4 parts for the clutch modification to "soften" the TD5 clutch - a well worth job to do.

Parts ordered;
CLP3180 (Kit Bearing)
DCP3212L (Bushes) x2
EDP7510L (Torsion spring)

I ordered them from Rimmer Bros and cost me less than €40 including postage. Firstly I took out all the lining of the Driver's foot well - in hindsight I didn't need to do all that but, I fixed a few things along the way.

Floor mats removed with a NoiseKiller mat remaining, and wow it really does hold water!  It was soaking, I'm going to take it out and let drive the next good day we have and then seal the rim of it, hopefully that will work in future.

All lining removed and a close up of the pedal and Spring.  Think I'll need to paint the pedal at some stage! Also noticed some nasty rust which will need some looking after.

Next I removed the original spring - not to hard, just use your favourite prying tool!

The next thing was fitting the Kit Bearing, it hooks into the latch behind the pedal.  A good bit of force and WD40 needed here. 

 

Next was fitting the two Bearings each side of the pedal.  Again a good bit of force and WD40 - you can't really see them in the second image, but they are fitted!

Lastly was fitting the spring - firstly I snap it into the Kit Bearing then I got a plank of wood and wedge it so the pedal was full pressed down, then I fit each side into the Bushes.  One side doesn't fit perfectly, but according to others online this is a common occurance.

I put everything back in place and then wedge the lining in place with some wood and a hammer! :D

Fixed my Wiper Park Switch

The wipers on my windsreen stopped working.  Well they worked but woudn't go back to the park position. So to the forums I went!!

According to the forums it was a handy job, I just needed to buy a wiper park motor switch.  Good old ebay sorted me out and got one delivered and all for about €15.

According to the forums, I needed to take out the passenger side speaker.  Did that but didn't understand why, never needed to go through it.

Took off the dash and unscrewed the bottom part of the dash - this I found to be really useful.

Here we have the Wiper Park Switch, first things first, unplug it

Unplugged, fairly easy pinch and squeeze!

The old park switch came out easy, lift up and out.  A bit of force needed but nothing major!

The new one in.  This was the hardest part and probably took me the longest to do.  I ended up using a scredriver to open up (slightly) the clip on the park switch as it was too tight.  I finally got it on after several attempts.

Now wipers are fine!

Fit a New Radio and a New Aerial

So I go a new radio, only cost me €70 including postage from Pixmania,  I didn't want a lit up crazy looking thing, but something that had a proper connection for my Ipod/Iphone.

Like a kid in a sweet shop, I dived in and started to fit the radio, when I discovered a few annoying things.  Serves me right, it is a Land Rover after all.

 

Here is the original radio in the consol.  At the bottom of the radio there is are two holes with screws with star like heads.  I discovered that these heads were striped.  So I had to take out the entire consol to take the radio out.

 I took these two photos to remind me how to put it back together.
 

Radio and consol out - with plugs handing out.  I had to take off the top of the Dash to take out the consol, which was fine as you can do it in 3 minutes!

Took old radio out and the housing it was in.  The new radio was slightly wider, so I had to pear back some of the housing on the inside - but out on front it still looks fine!

Used the metal casing to wedge the new radio into the plastic housing, it works fine.

New Radio in the plastic housing

New Radio back in consol

Here's where I started getting annoyed.  I amanaged to fit the radio perfectly, but the connections were not going to fit.  The above connection for my speakers etc was a DIN, and the new radio had an ISO connection (Sigh!) So I know I could cut it and jimmy fix it together, but I thought I do some research first!

The next thing was the aerial connection - I needed to get a converter jack for the original Aerial plug and the socket of the new radio.

So I went forum hunting and Haynes manual reading.  I discovered I needed a DIN to ISO cable/adapter.  Found one on a audio car shop website which was going to cost me £35, nearly the price of the radio (eh no!!). So went to good old trusty Ebay with the part number and got one delivered for less than €20.

 Looked for a converter for the original aerial and it was going to cost me €4, then saw this aerial and correct jack for €8 in Maplins, as my original aerial was broken also - I thought feck it, I'll get this rubber one.

Radio fitted back with DIN to ISO adapter - tested and worked, next Aerial!

Old aerial - although I liked it, it was bent/snapped off at the top.  So had to go.

Unhitched the aerual from the clip under the panel and then unscrewed it.

New aerial partly taken apart so the wire would fit through the hole behind the engine.

Still had the original aerial wire through the car, and thought I'd join both and pull though.  Worked like a charm.  Although some forums said they'd add an extra jack in the engine bay, so in future one could just plug and play - makes sens but I wanted my radio now and it will be a few more years before I change it!

Fixed up the coaxe cable of the new aerial after I took the tape off it.

All plugged in and ready to go

Works like a charm!!  I fogot to take a photo with my Iphone in it, will add that later!

Here we go with the new aerial!

I would like to get rid of the aerial altogether on the front!  Then I'd add a long spring like aerial on the back, mounted to a swing away wheel carrier, something that is military looking and high enough to go over the top of the roof.